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Sistemas de construcción Pegado y Loockstitcher.

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Jalar el corte sobre la horma hacia abajo, esta es la clasificación de la que hablaremos hoy centrándonos en los dos primeros sistemas de construcción de este tipo.

 

Pegado.

 

Es el proceso de construcción a nivel mundial más utilizado en la industria, aunque no el más valorado pues a lo largo de los años los consumidores han tenido desconfianza al creer que si un par de zapatos no está cocido no tendrá un largo tiempo de vida útil, y en cierto modo tenían razón, pero eso hasta hace algunos años cuando aparecieran en el mercado pegamentos de gran capacidad que unen todas las partes del calzado sin ningún problema y garantizan la calidad del producto final.

 

Es además un sistema de construcción bastante versátil, que tiene la capacidad de adaptarse perfectamente a los procesos artesanal gracias a la practicidad de su ejecución tanto física como intelectualmente, pero también es muy utilizado en grandes empresas que optan por el pegado por su facilidad y economía, además de permitirles producir mayor cantidad de pares en menor tiempo.

 

Así mismo la maquinaria requerida para efectuar este proceso es mínima, bastara con algunas pocas para elmontado de las piezas y calentamiento del pegamento para su activación, en algunos de los casos, incluso en la actualidad han salido al mercado maquinas encargadas de distribuir la pega para que se haga de manera uniforme, aunque no son imprescindibles dentro de la ejecución, así como también el uso de tachuelas para tensar las partes hacia abajo y proceder con la aplicación de las pegas.

 

Estos pegamentos se deben dejar secar a temperatura ambiente y luego por medio de hornos calentadores se vuelven a activar para finalmente unir las partes del calzado superior y suela gracias a la acción de una maquina prensadora; la intensidad y tiempos de presión deben tomarse en consideración para garantizar la excelencia del producto, al igual que respetar los tiempos de secado según el tipo de pegamento a utilizar.

 

Como recomendación final con el sistema de construcción por pegado podemos brindarles estos útiles consejos:

 

·Tener cuidado en la elección de materiales tanto de pegamentos como los demás involucrados en la confección de calzado, para garantizar la calidad del calzado final.

·Conservar los pegamentos en tiempos y temperaturas recomendadas, ya que de usarse en mal estado no se adherirán como se espera.

·Crear una fase final de supervisión en la que sean examinados en detalle la calidad y estado de cada par producido, como mencionamos es uno de los sistemas con más desconfianza en el mercado.

 

Lookstitcher.

 

Es un sistema de construcción similar al pegado pero con la adición de una costura lateral que una la suela y el corte, evitando cualquier desprendimiento de las partes involucradas, esto alarga el periodo de vida útil del calzado y lo hace mucho más resistente.

 

Surge de la necesidad de crear un zapato más fuerte que el construido solamente por pegado, en el que la costura une el corte, la planta y la suela, a esta última pieza se recomienda que tenga un canal que proteja la costura y la haga aún más duradera, además para evitar rupturas del hilo con la fricción de la superficie.

 

La suela se adhiere primeramente por el proceso de pegado con la aplicación del pegamento que es activada por los hornos de calor, posteriormente se realiza el cocido manualmente o con ayuda de una maquina llamada lookstitcher, que de hecho es quien le da el nombre a este proceso de montado. Esta costura se hace tanto interna como externamente quedando expuesta por ambos lados.

 

Con este sistema se fabrican calzado de todo tipo dirigido a hombres, mujeres y niños quienes tienen más confianza cuando ven que un zapato posee costuras, imaginando que esto les otorgara mayor durabilidad y flexibilidad; en el caso de los zapatos con tacón integrado la costura no cubre esta parte del calzado, pero aun así hace a estos modelos más resistentes.

 

Como parte importante del Lookstitcher se debe tomar en cuenta la necesidad de maquinaria especializada que requiere de una inversión económica en algunos casos no menor, al igual que de un operador con amplios conocimientos para operar dicho aparato y realizar este tipo especial de costura.

6 Comments on “Sistemas de construcción Pegado y Loockstitcher.

[…] Sistemas de construcción Pegado y Loockstitcher. […]

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Eric Jones
14 julio 2020 at 18:40

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Eric Jones
19 agosto 2020 at 00:27

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[…] adhesivos son compuestos muy utilizados en la confección de calzado, sobre todo para sistemas como pegado o loockstitcher; por lo que es común que es una fábrica se encuentren almacenados diversos tipos de adhesivos, […]

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